Dive into the history of the 13 Christmas desserts, an essential Provençal ritual combining indulgence and sharing. Discover the origins of this southern French tradition.
The tradition of 13 desserts: a gourmet treasure of Provence
The tradition of the 13 Christmas desserts is an emblematic ritual of the Land of Argence and the south of France, particularly in Provence. This symbol of sharing and generosity has its origins in the religious and peasant culture of the region. Let's discover together its history, its meaning and the delicacies that make up this sweet feast.
A tradition rooted in Provençal history
The 13 Christmas desserts are rooted in the faith and culture of Provence. The highly symbolic number 13 represents Jesus Christ and his 12 apostles gathered at the Last Supper.
Traditionally, these sweets were enjoyed after the " big supper, a simple, lean meal often consisting of fish and vegetables, which precedes midnight mass. The desserts were then placed on a table decorated with three white tablecloths one above the other (representing the Holy Trinity) and three candles. They were to remain on the table for three days, sign of abundance and generosity.
What are the 13 Christmas Desserts?
Although there is no universal list, certain desserts are essential and form the basis of this tradition:
The Four Beggars :
Dried figs, almonds, raisins and walnuts or hazelnuts.
Sweet treats and confectionery :
Black nougat (honey and almonds), white nougat (with hazelnuts, pine nuts and pistachios), oil pump (brioche flavored with olive oil and orange blossom).
fresh fruit :
Dates, oranges or clementines, apples, pears and late grapes, watermelon or other exotic fruits: a touch of elsewhere added to the Provençal table!
Delicious local specialties :
Calissons d'Aix: made from almonds and candied orange peel.
Quince or fruit paste.
Fruit wrappers or pastes.
The origins
If the idea of a generously laden table dates back to writings from the 17th century, It was not until 1925 that the tradition of 13 desserts was formalized. Dr. Joseph Fallen, a writer from Aubagne, mentions this custom in the newspaper La Pignato. He emphasizes the importance of the number 13, declaring: "You need thirteen, yes thirteen, no more if you like, but not one less."
In short, here are 3 rules to follow to make this Provençal tradition a success:
- Respect the number 13: a total of thirteen desserts minimum
- Include the must-haves: the oil pump, nougats and the four beggars
- Don't forget fresh fruit: seasonal fruits like oranges, apples or grapes
The lists evolve according to families and preferences, but the essential remains: generosity and the Christmas spirit.
Christmas in Provence is not just about the 13 desserts. Another custom, just as symbolic and anchored in the hearts of the Provençals, prepares for the arrival of the holidays: that of the Saint Barbara's wheatSown on December 4, Saint Barbara's Day, this wheat brings luck and announces abundance for the coming year.
Provençal traditions
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